Even if today the production of Ligurian wine is mostly consumed locally (remembering the Albarola, the Ancellotta) is in this region they do not produce wines of great fame (if you exclude the limited production of the Cinque Terre), it is however true some Ligurian wines were already cited in the letter that Sante Lancerio, who lived in the XVI century, addressed to Cardinal Guido Ascanio Sforza. A letter about the nature and quality of the wines that may be considered the incunabulum of the Italian oenological literature; for the first time this letter gave a valutation pertinent to a single product, to its external aspect, perfume, flavour, after-taste, also to its alcoholic grade, to its life, to its attitude to transport, to its suitability and its accompaniment to a single meal, to the various hours in a day in which the wine could be drunk, to the various seasons, and to the various physiological conditions. We cite here three famous Ligurian wines mentioned in the above stated letter. The wine of the Riveria. Comes from a lot of places along the Riveria of Genoa. These wines are very good and a delicate drink, mostly in the summer. But for their delicateness often, it is better taken straight from the "barca", and it is strong. It is from the land of the Taglia, where they have the good muscatel, and again Onelia (the actual Imperia); but Monterosso, one of the Cinque Terre, is much better. There is white and red, but better the white. This sort of wine is much grander than the Centula, but for the major part muted of colour, and to know its goodness it needs to be of strong perfume, mature, and golden colour. In advance you need to take it out of the "barca" if you want to try the colour. The Razzese wine. Comes from the Riveria of Genoa and it is the best of a land called Monterosso, and it is a very good wine. It is much valued in Rome by the Genoans, like the Malvagia is for the Venitians. There arrive in Rome small casks. For those who want to know its perfect goodness, it needs to be smoky and of a strong perfume, a golden colour, agreeable but not sweet. This wine is not to be drunk with all meals, because it is too smoky and light. Of that wine S.S. (the Cardinal Ascanio Sforza of who the letter is dedicated to) has not drunk, but sometimes at a great sundown made the soup, or in a season when the figs are good, ate them sugared, and poured on this wine, maximum sweetness and agreeable and said that it was a great nutriment to the old. In this place where they make this wine, to make it sweeter above the vine, when the grape is mature, to tread the small bunches of grapes and then them leave attached to the vine for 8 days, and then harvest a wine good and perfect. The wine of Monterosso. It is perfect and good, but here there are only a small amount of vines. There is an excellent vineyard on a hill, where they give care and government which is worthy, certainly is better wine; maximum is the red it is a digestable wine and biting and fleshy. Of this wine S.S. drinks much. Signor Card. Farnese used great diligence on his vineyard, said Mons. Valerio; that when he suddenly died, it was found that he had hidden a "viluppo" (= bundle) of ducats in a mountain of grain.