The true bistecca - that outside Florence and above all outside Tuscany is known simply as "fiorentina" - it comes from tender young calf of the Chianina breed or Maremmana Chianino and it is cut from the loin, which has the bone in the middle in the shape of a "T" with the fillet and the sirloin. A good bistecca must be hung for about five days and must be three centimetres in height. Legend has it that the word bistecca, of clearly English origin - beef steak, which is a cut of beef - was born in the 1500's during the feast that was on the 10th August to celebrate Saint Lorenzo in the square of the same name in Florence. But it belongs to legend: in fact in the Dictionary in use in Tuscany in 1863, Fanfani claims that it belongs to a neologism born, it seems, in 1823. But - apart from its name - the bistecca alla brace is truly antique, known in the centuries before the 1800's with the name of carbonata (barbecued). It is cooked on a grill placed above live embers at a distance of about ten centimetres; it must be at room temperature and taken by hand (not with a fork). After five minutes of cooking it is turned with a spatula and only now salt is added, another five minutes of cooking, again turned, sprinkled with salt and taken off the fire: placed on a very hot tray or a wooden platter and served hot. Other than salt there are no other condiments added; at the most only a little black pepper. This is the correct way of cooking the bistecca no variations are allowed and in this way it is known worldwide.