The Maremma

Livorno makes its appearance

Leaving the XII century the story of Pisa becomes interwoven with Livorno that, as a small centre of fishermen and farmworkers belonged to the Marques of Tuscany who gave it to the Opera of the Duomo of Pisa, and it was passed to the Council of that city that found itself in a position where it had to find an alternative port, not a long way from the centre of the Port of Pisa, which was becoming filled with earth, when the Pisa fleet was at the height of its power in the western Medeterranean. At the end of the 1300s, to defend from the south the Port of Pisa from the Saracen raids, there was erected around the central port of Livorno a fortified wall. No courts, no sumptuous banquets in these cities, no opulence that elsewhere made famous many prepared dishes and also a witness to great cooks, but a simple cooking of people who worked on the sea and of the sea. A typical dish of the grand navigations was the musciame as said by the sailors. It was made from strips of dolphin (that were still fished without restrictions) put in brine for a day and then dried in the sun for about a week. It was cooked in a stew and eaten with crackers dipped in sea water. When the fish was brought to port, mixing various fish pieces, cooking them in stews and pouring it onto a slice of bread agliato, was made the cacciucco, typical dish of Livorno but present along the coast, famous still today, in which the term was derived from a Turkish word Kuciuk which means minuto. Today this dish is made only with fish capon, dogfish, cuttlefish, king prawns, cicada and mussels. It is a very ancient dish surviving for many centuries and through many events.